From: Subject: In the shadows of Bamiyan's Buddhas, it's showtime | csmonitor.com Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 11:00:21 +0300 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00C4_01C3AC30.D4444F00"; type="text/html" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00C4_01C3AC30.D4444F00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.csmonitor.com/2002/0524/p07s02-wosc.html In the shadows of Bamiyan's Buddhas, it's showtime | = csmonitor.com =20
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World > Asia: = South=20 & Central: "A Letter From = Bamiyan,=20 Afghanistan"
from the May 24, = 2002=20 edition

In the = shadows of=20 Bamiyan's Buddhas, it's showtime
Near = Afghanistan's destroyed=20 statues of Bamiyan, returning refugees enjoyed a cinematic=20 treat.
By Borzou = Daragahi=20
It's that=20 scene where Buster Keaton manages to get his ramshackle = homemade=20 house off the railroad tracks, narrowly missing the path of = an=20 oncoming train, only to place it before a locomotive coming = from the=20 other direction. The train pulverizes the house. Keaton and = his=20 wife, downtrodden but arm in arm, walk off into the = distance.=20

"That's the story of Afghanistan," says Mohammad Hakim, a = minesweeper who is among the 350 or so residents who came = out to the=20 site of the destroyed Buddha statues of Bamiyan earlier this = month=20 for an evening of short films.

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"Everything falls to pieces. Every time we build = something up,=20 something comes along and destroys it, whether war or fire = or=20 earthquake," Mr. Hakim says.

The setting is surreal. In the background are the former = Buddhas=20 of Bamiyan, the gigantic 115- and 175-foot statues blown to = rubble=20 by the Taliban last year as symbols of heresy.

In the foreground are a movie projector, makeshift = screen, and an=20 audience of locals. The people have gathered to watch a = series of=20 Afghan-made educational movies about women's health, = landmines, and=20 the loya jirga (the national assembly scheduled for=20 mid-June), as well as the Buster Keaton shorts.

Up above, a spectacular cloak of stars covers the cool = night of=20 the Hazarajat, the ancestral home of the Hazara, the mostly = Shiite=20 Muslim Asiatic people who make up about 20 percent of = Afghanistan's=20 population.

The Hazara suffered cruelty at the hands of the Taliban, = who=20 considered them idolatrous infidels. In the face of a = serious=20 regional drought, many say the Taliban probably had designs = on the=20 Bamiyan Valley's lush farmlands.

Local aid officials estimate that up to 95 percent of the = residents of Bamiyan province fled their homes and villages = into the=20 mountains and camps to escape the wrath of the Sunni Muslim = and=20 Pashto-speaking Taliban. Along the nine-hour drive from = Kabul to=20 Bamiyan lie countless crushed homes, burned-down businesses, = and=20 emptied villages.

Only recently have the Hazara begun trickling back from = the=20 mountains and refugee camps to their villages. They return = to their=20 shattered homes and businesses, they visit gravesites, they = cry for=20 all that they have lost. And slowly, they begin to = rebuild.

"When they were massacring people here, I was freezing in = the=20 mountains with my wife and kids," says Ahmad Jan, an affable = baker=20 who returned to town about a month ago. "Now, we're starting = our=20 life again."

Most of the people here have never seen a movie on the = big screen=20 before. And almost all of the children and men (the only = women who=20 have come are Western employees of local NGOs) who have come = here=20 are grateful and appreciative of the program, sponsored by = the=20 French nonprofit group Aina (www.ainaworld.com), which has = launched=20 a series of similar screenings throughout Afghanistan.

The last such movie anyone recalls was a film about the = Iran-Iraq=20 war shown four years ago at a local school. That was = sponsored by=20 the consulate of the Islamic Republic of Iran.

But it's not that these people have never seen a movie = before.=20 Satellite dishes and video CD players have arrived in = Bamiyan.=20 Afghans can rent Indian, Iranian, or even action-packed = American=20 movies at one of three video rental shops that have opened = up here=20 since the Taliban's demise.

In front of the lost statues of Bamiyan, some of the = viewers are=20 wrapped in blankets and packed tightly together, gossiping = between=20 films. Others sit in their jeeps and Toyota pickup trucks, = as if at=20 a drive-in. Many stand, their turbaned heads silhouetted on = the=20 screen.

"Sit down!" bark soldiers present at the screening. "Let = the=20 people in the back see."

All eyes are fixed on the screen. They watch an = Afghan-made=20 parable about four brothers who have a falling out over a = piece of=20 land and fight each other until bloody and near death. The = audience=20 cries together. They watch Buster Keaton do a pratfall. The = audience=20 laughs together.

"This is a place of so much pain," says Mohammad Zaki, an = unemployed young man who returned to Bamiyan with his family = just a=20 few weeks ago.

"Maybe showing movies here will make it better. They = should show=20 more movies. Maybe twice a week. Maybe every = night."


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