THE IRANIAN: Features, Behesht-e Zahra, Borzou = Daragahi

From: Subject: THE IRANIAN: Features, Behesht-e Zahra, Borzou Daragahi Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 10:56:39 +0300 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0025_01C3AC30.4FE5BE10"; type="text/html" X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0025_01C3AC30.4FE5BE10 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Location: http://www.iranian.com/Features/2002/February/Borzu/index.html THE IRANIAN: Features, Behesht-e Zahra, Borzou = Daragahi

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Take me=20 instead!
The one thing they've managed to = fine tune=20 in Iran

By Borzou Daragahi
February 7, = 2002
The=20 Iranian

Whatever their lot in life, whatever joys = they=20 share or miseries they suffer, whatever car they drive or = section of=20 town they live in, most people in Tehran eventually find = their way=20 to the gigantic Behesht-e Zahra cemetery, as I found out = following=20 the rather unexpected death of Hushang, a 62-year-old = relative of my=20 host family.

Behesht means heaven. Zahra was a = daughter of=20 Prophet Mohammad.

It's early in the morning, and I've = had=20 very little sleep. I'm sitting in the backseat of a Kia = Sport with=20 my friends Ali and Arash in the front. We're driving south = of the=20 city to the funeral. The sun shines harshly on the blanched, = rocky=20 terrain. Arash, bless his soul, had the benevolence and = foresight to=20 prepare a thermos full of hot coffee for the hour-long ride. = He even=20 added sugar and milk! Bickering and gossiping lightly the = whole way;=20 Ali and Arash are perfect company.

Driving on the = highway,=20 however, is a terror ride. There's not much traffic. But the = few=20 drivers fail to comply with the most basic, commonsense = driving=20 protocols. An ancient truck overloaded with produce crawls = along at=20 20 miles per hour, hovering back and forth between the fast = and=20 middle lanes. A late-model Mercedes zips across three lanes = of=20 traffic into the slow lane. I knock on glass. I sip coffee = out of=20 plastic.

Everything in = Iran from=20 Internet access to the state bureaucracy is a colossal,=20 time-consuming and blunder-filled mess. My friend Samad has = had to=20 wrestle for weeks with the Education Ministry because they=20 themselves lost his daughter's file and won't release her = grades=20 until "someone" finds it.

I don't even want to think = about=20 doing anything as complicated as opening a bank account or = obtaining=20 a copy of a lost passport. I was told over two months ago, = for=20 example, that it would take anywhere from "two to six = months" to=20 issue me an updated edition of my birth certificate, despite = having=20 filled out all the requisite forms and forked over the = proper fees.=20

But apparently, however, the one thing they've = managed to=20 fine tune in Iran is the process of putting you to your = final=20 rest.

To get to Behesht-e Zahra from Tehran, you = drive past=20 the multi-acre shrine for Ayatollah Khomeini. The cemetery = was the=20 site of Khomeini's famous February 1, 1979 speech, in which = he=20 launched a regime obsessed with spilt blood and martyrdom. = "If God=20 forbid [the Shah] had continued to rule, he would have = drained our=20 oil," he said back then. "We would have been slaves of the=20 foreigners. This is why we shout. This is why the blood of = our young=20 has filled the streets."

Nearly 13 years after = Khomeini's=20 death, his shrine is still not completely built. Authorities = try to=20 lure visitors with stores selling subsidized meals and = consumer=20 products. Still, save for a few cars and buses, the parking = lot is=20 nearly empty. Along the highway, gruff, desperate men sell = funeral=20 wreaths they probably lifted from the cemetery. =

Unlike the=20 quaint solemnity of North American cemeteries, Behesht-e = Zahra is=20 gigantic and bustling. Of course, traffic inside is a = tangled snarl=20 and parking is a hassle. Soldiers bark orders at cars. "You! = In the=20 Peugeot! Keep moving!" They sound mean and angry; it seems = cruelly=20 inappropriate to holler over a loudspeaker to downcast = mourners=20 coming to pay their respects.

Huge portraits, flags = and=20 banners spangled with political and religious slogans adorn = the=20 section of the cemetery reserved for those who died in the=20 eight-year-long Iran-Iraq war. I wonder if they'll open a = new=20 section for victims of a U.S. bombardment should Bush decide = to=20 launch a military adventure here in the spirit of the Iraqi, = Serbian=20 or Afghan campaigns.

Six-foot-high wreaths studded = with=20 fragrant jasmine abound. Like everywhere else in this = rigidly=20 class-conscious society, there are good and bad = neighborhoods. Plots=20 range in price from about $125 to just over $3,000 for a = nice shaded=20 one.

The most amazing part of Behesht-e Zahra is the = central=20 depot, which is so crowded you're constantly getting bumped = and=20 shoved. It includes shops selling soda, flowers and snacks. = There=20 are even a few automatic bank machines. Mourners stand in = the middle=20 of the depot and gape at an electronic screen announcing the = names=20 and plot numbers of the deceased; I am spellbound. It's like = you're=20 seeing the departed off at the airport to heaven. When your=20 deceased's name pops up on the departures screen, you gather = your=20 crew and step out into the courtyard.

The deceased's = remains=20 are wrapped in white cloth (or a kataan) in proper Islamic = fashion,=20 hoisted onto wooden rack, and carried by the men into the = main=20 courtyard. In the Islamic tradition, there's no casket. = Mourners=20 place flowers upon the deceased. They follow along praising = Allah,=20 screaming, crying and hitting themselves. "If only it were = me!" the=20 women cry to the heavens. "Take me instead!"

In the=20 courtyard, the body is laid upon the ground. The mourners = gather,=20 and a white-turbaned cleric leads them in prayer. The men,=20 continuing to cry and lament, then carry the remains to an=20 ambulance, which proceeds to the burial site. I spot a few = mourners=20 videotaping. I'm told it's common.

The process takes = about 10=20 or 15 minutes and roughly three or four of these rituals = happen=20 simultaneously, so about 16 deceased are escorted through = per hour.=20 Nothing in Iran gets done that efficiently, especially = nothing=20 operated by the government, as is Behesht-e = Zahrah.

I'm=20 surprised to hear the joyous catcalls I've usually = associated with=20 weddings coming from one group of mourners. A young woman = had died=20 the day before her wedding. Weeping, the women toss rice = onto her=20 body as she's carried away.

3D"Amazon The vast, = vast, vast=20 majority of women here wear chadors. In fact, only among the = group=20 of mourners I'm with do women wear hijab lite and men the = suits and=20 ties of the Western-oriented intelligentsia. Only among our = group do=20 people talk on cell phones or look away or decline to pray = along=20 while the cleric conducts the rites. And only among our = group do the=20 men and women mingle together during the cleric's prayer. If = I were=20 to take the people here as a representative sample of = Iranian=20 society, I'd have to say that only 10% are Western-oriented = and=20 secular.

One woman I know wears a light blue = headscarf,=20 looking joyous in a sea of black. The deceased was her = sister's=20 husband. She lived in the West for many years, but returned. = The=20 people here are warmer, she said. She asks me what I think = of all=20 this. I tell her I was fascinated with the departures = terminal. She=20 laughs.

We climb into cars and a touring bus rented = for the=20 occasion and head toward the final resting place. Another = wrestling=20 match with cemetery traffic. I'm surprised at how crowded = the place=20 is. The plots are basically right next to each other, and = there's no=20 way to get around without stepping on the horizontal = tombstones.=20

They place the white-robed body into the grave. I'm = slightly=20 nervous that someone will try to throw themselves in along = with the=20 deceased. I've heard of that happening at Iranian funerals. = But=20 everyone in this crowd is way too classy, way too restrained = to do=20 anything like that. Instead they pile a mountain of flowers = onto the=20 burial site. People take turns going to the grave, handling = the soil=20 and weeping.

I notice a pair of fresh-faced = conscripts=20 standing about. Funerals are a dangerous business in the = Islamic=20 world. Many a despot -- including the previous overlord of = this=20 country - has been shaken by the emotional eruptions at = funerals for=20 those who died at the hands of authorities. The = demonstrations=20 leading up to the overthrow of the Shah were essentially a = cycle of=20 mourning rituals for those killed by the Shah during = previous=20 mourning rituals.

But the reason for the soldiers = here now is=20 more mundane and contemporary: there has been a spate of = armed=20 robberies during funerals in the more isolated sections of = the=20 cemetery, with bandits making off with mourners' jewelry and = cash.=20 It is suggested to our party that we take all the flowers = back to=20 the city. "Junkies will be here to steal them five minutes = after you=20 leave," a cemetery employee informs us.

Immediately=20 following a death, friends and family usually gather at the = house of=20 the deceased to commiserate. But Hushang and his family were = in the=20 process of moving when he passed away. So they had the = requisite=20 seven days of crying, remembering and feasting (lots of = feasting!)=20 at another relative's home, which happened to be in the same = apartment complex where I was staying. People paid their = respects to=20 the family for a week, bringing enough flowers to fill the = whole=20 place. It's like a dinner party every night for a week. In = accord=20 with Muslim tradition, there's another commemoration on the = 40th day=20 after a death.

I feel sorry for the deceased's = family, who=20 seems to be responsible for feeding and entertaining all = these=20 people. The guests come impeccably dressed. I am dazzled by = the=20 women's outfits. Thank goodness I brought my black suit. Men = sneak=20 off to down shots of vodka. People sit awkwardly waiting for = tea and=20 sweets and food to be served. When a new guest arrives, = mourners=20 stand and shake hands or kiss. If they don't know the = person, they=20 make a gesture toward standing, then quickly sit. =

I'm bored.=20 I make small talk with the guests. I chat with the hired = help in the=20 kitchen. They know I'm that journalist from "Amreeka". = They're=20 friendly to me because I bring my own dirty plates and = glasses into=20 the kitchen. I ask one what she thought of President George = Bush's=20 threats against Iran, about the possibility of war with the = U.S. She=20 tells me that three of her nephews and her son-in-law were = martyred=20 in the Iran-Iraq war. "If there were a war, it would be our = class=20 who would be martyred," she says. The others working in the = kitchen=20 remain silent.

I had never met Hushang. But I have = hung out=20 with his son, Mehdi, who's about my age. I turned him on to = the band=20 "Death in Vegas", which he really liked. I had tea and = pastries=20 several times with Hushang's wife, Mena, far and away the = most=20 serene, relaxed person I've met here.

Gradually, I = find out=20 a little more about Hushang, a bespectacled man who could = have=20 passed for 50. He was an intellectual. He was down to earth. = He was=20 a thoughtful man who despised -- passionately despised -- = the=20 direction his country had taken. "Our parents' generation = are dying=20 off so fast," says my friend Ali, one in the car to the = funeral.=20 "The revolution put so much stress and pressure on them. = They're all=20 withering away before their time."

Hushang loved = poetry,=20 especially the Iranian poet Hafiz. There's a lovely = hardcover book=20 of Hafiz poems floating around the house. "Let's see what = Mr. Hafiz=20 has to say," a guest says. He flips the book open to a = random page.=20 He reads. He shivers. He closes the book and weeps. =

Perhaps he read the = following:

Little sleeper, the spring is here; =
Tulip=20 and rose are come again,
Only you in the earth remain,=20
Sleeping, dear.

Little sleeper, the spring is = here;=20
I, like a cloud of April rain,
Am bending over your = grave in=20 vain,
Weeping, dear.

Little flower, the spring = is here;=20
What if my tears were not in vain!
What if they drew = you up=20 again,
Little flower!=20

Note

Receive Borzou = Daragahi's=20 letters in your mailbox by sending a blank email to borzou-subscribe@topica.co= m.

Comment for = The=20 Iranian letters=20 section
Comment for the writer Borzou=20 Daragahi

ALSO
By Borzou=20 Daragahi

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