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Sunday June 2 2002

Resentful Iranians ready for a long, hot summer

As the gulf between hardliners and the rest of society continues to widen, remarkable belligerence is being shown by reformist newspapers, dissidents, politicians and young people, Borzou Daraghi reports from Teheran

It has started again. In Pasdaran Square one night last week, the rough, bearded men - the Basiji militia - were out in full force, looking inside cars for unmarried couples.

Two weeks ago in Vanak Square - a popular hangout for young people as well as prostitutes and their customers - police began roughing up youngsters and women and loading them into police vehicles. This time the youths, armed with greater numbers, fought back with their fists, and a near-riot ensued.

'It was crazy,' said Saeed, a 24-year-old gypsy cab driver who came upon the scene. 'I thought to myself, 'It's going to be a long summer'.'

Following years of relaxation of the Islamic Republic's infamous social restrictions, authorities have begun cracking down again in recent weeks on signs of Western decadence.

Semi-official Islamic fundamentalist morality enforcers who answer only to Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, the conservatives' leader, have redeployed on the streets of the city of 12 million over the past three or four weeks, witnesses say.

The crackdown comes amid yet another attempt by the hardline judiciary to muzzle the country's press, this time over the issue of restoring ties with the United States.

But as the gulf between hardliners and the rest of Iranian society continues to widen, the most remarkable aspect of the current battles in Iran's long-running political and cultural war between reformists and conservatives may not be the belligerence of the hardliners, but of their intended victims: reformist newspapers, dissidents, politicians and young people.

'Threats of imprisonment and intimidation of the people when they criticise you do not become you,' Muhammad Mohsen Sazgara, a co-founder of the ultra-conservative Revolutionary Guards but now a leading reformist, wrote in a recent letter to Ayatollah Khamenei.

'This is the style of evil rulers and cruel kings. Let us not forget that we are all followers of the Prophet, who said, 'The best jihad is saying words of truth to an evil ruler'.'

There are many signs that a long, hot summer in Iran's cultural and political wars is under way. Just as the thermostat has risen, newscasters have been warning women to dress more modestly, a message to young women who wear skimpier headscarves and overcoats with each passing day.

Once again, authorities have begun stopping cars and questioning young people, who make up 60 per cent of Iran's population.

Once again, they have begun breaking up parties in private homes. Mohammad Khordadian, a popular Los Angeles-based Iranian-American dancer, has been locked up for three weeks in Evin Prison after he was arrested in the airport on his way back to the US.

He was charged with 'inciting and encouraging corruption among young people', according to the newspaper Iran.

The authorities have even confiscated Barbie dolls from toy shops. Locally produced Dara and Sara national dolls, dressed in traditional costumes, have taken their place.

The cultural crackdown comes during a high-pitched political battle over the issue of restoring ties with the US.

A reformist block of politicians, led by President Mohammad Khatami, has urged a normalisation of ties with the US in order to help attract and retain foreign investment and alleviate the country's spiralling unemployment, officially at 14 per cent but unofficially at 20 per cent.

Conservatives, led by Ayatollah Khamenei, who controls Iran's military, judiciary and intelligence apparatuses, say they oppose resuming ties with the US, officially severed following the 1979-80 taking of hostages at the US Embassy in Teheran.

On editorial pages and on the floor of the Majlis, a lively debate has ensued. After Nowrouz, a reformist daily, reported that hardliners had recently held secret talks with US officials, the conservative judiciary took the extraordinary step of ordering a muzzling of all public discussion about restoring ties with the US.

But it was to no avail. The newspapers shot back defiantly, all but ignoring the judiciary's order to shut up and answering back in kind.

'To forbid society officially to express opinions on any issue has a clear meaning, and will have negative effects on society,' wrote Nowrouz.

On the floor of the Majlis, the Iranian parliament, Elaheh Koulai, a reformist legislator, called the judiciary's order 'a step towards despotic behaviour'.

Indeed, reformist Iranian legislators have made a recent habit of quick, scathing responses. After Ali Emami-Rad, a hardline parliamentarian, accused a colleague of being an 'American spy' and a 'communist', he was shouted down as a 'fascist' and told to 'shut up', according to Irna, Iran's official news agency.

The only person who seems to have buckled to the conservatives is Mr Khatami, the reformist president swept to power in 1997 and 2001 on the strength of his appeal to young people and women.

He gave a speech late last week urging his fellow reformists to give up the struggle to restore ties with the US. His supporters have already been disillusioned by his refusal to fight the conservatives more vigorously.

Unemployment continues to climb, wages continue to stagnate and costs to rise. The country desperately needs foreign investment, and the goodwill of the US may be the key.

But with his waffling on the US issue, Mr Khatami is sure to push more of his supporters away from the official political process and towards the cultural arena.

Despite a ban on alcohol and threat of a whipping for all those caught with liquor, cans of beer are on sale at many grocery stores.

Despite the ban on men and women dancing together, wild lascivious parties abound.

And despite the crackdown and the warnings, the streets of Teheran on Thursday night, the beginning of the Iranian weekend, were alive with music and the tooting of car horns.


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